There is no greater sense of anticipation than when you
get to the drop-off point, the van pulls away, and it’s just you, your crew,
your gear, and the water. The entirety
of the trail awaits. It may turn out to be
buggy or rainy. Or maybe it ends up
incredibly hot, sunny, and dry. Every
canoe trip is different, and each one is an incredible adventure in its own
right regardless of the conditions you encounter. What’s important, though, is that you prepare
as best as you can. Training and more
specific information will be given at camp, but what you can do now is make
sure you have the right gear for your trip.
Each of you going on a Canadian canoe trip will get a gear list with the
essential and additional items you should bring with you to camp. The information here is meant to accompany
that list and help you narrow your choices for the essential gear.
A few words about this guide: the examples posted below
are not specific items that you have to
get—they are just suggestions of what would be appropriate and are meant to
give ideas of what to look for. The gear
below is mostly brand name, but that’s not to say that they are the only
options. There are plenty of store-name brands that provide equipment that is just as
good if not occasionally better. The
major-name brand items should be considered guidelines for when you go to your
local outdoor retailer and should provide some recommendations for shopping on
your own.
Sleeping Bags
With the exception of rain gear, there’s no personal gear
more important than your sleeping bag.
Physically, it keeps you comfortable at night. But psychologically, it’s the safe haven
that’s waiting for you at the end of each and every day. Having a good sleeping bag is as good for the
mind as it is for the body, so take care in making your selection.
Temperature rating
Most sleeping bags will come with a temperature rating
ranging generally from -40°F to 40°F. The
temperature indicates the lowest air temperature or a temperature range that
the average person could comfortably sleep while sleeping on an insulated pad
and wearing a light layer and a hat.
Because all of our trips take place in the summer, you can eliminate any
‘winter’ sleeping bags from consideration.
My general rule of thumb is this (and requires a little research). Find the average low temperature for the
location you’re going to for the time of year that you’ll be there, then
subtract 10 to 20 degrees off that (if you prefer to be cooler when you sleep,
closer to 10; warmer, closer to 20).
Insulation
There’s two choices when it comes to insulation: down or
synthetic. Each has its pros and cons.
Down
Pros:
-
It’s the best insulating substance around
comparable to its weight.
-
It packs up extremely small, smaller than any
synthetic insulation that’s been developed.
Cons:
-
If it gets wet, it loses a lot of its insulating
power. And when it does get wet, down
can take a long time to dry out.
-
Down is more expensive, but it does last a long
time.
Synthetic
Pros:
-
Synthetics are specifically designed to provide
excellent insulation when wet and are designed to dry much quicker.
-
They are also more budget-friendly and are
easier to maintain (most are machine washable).
Cons:
-
Synthetic material will break down over time
regardless of how well you maintain the product, so you may find yourself
replacing products with synthetic insulation more frequently.
-
Synthetics don’t pack down quite as small as
down.
When weighing the two options, follow your personal
preference and your own knowledge about how you trip. If you know you want a packable, long-lasting sleeping
bag and are conscious of keeping your personal gear dry, choose down. If you want a sleeping bag that can handle
getting wet and you know that you might not go on many trips aside from what
you do at camp, a synthetic may be a more budget friendly option.
Style
There are a variety of styles of sleeping bags to choose
from, but the two most common are the traditional rectangular shape and the
‘mummy’. The ‘mummy’ style is so named
because the foot end of the sleeping bag tapers in toward the legs. In general, the rectangular bags are bigger
both when packed and when laid out. And
because they are bigger, they’re less efficient for insulating purposes. For camp, I recommend a mummy style. The only reason I would go with a rectangular
shape is if you cannot find a reasonable mummy-style sleeping bag or if you are
adamant about a larger bag.
Sleeping bags come generally in two sizes as well:
regular or long. If you’re on the taller
side (anything over about 6’1” or 6’2”), consider a long sleeping bag. If you get the chance at the store, try it
out.
 |
| Marmot Trestles 30 |
|
|
 |
| TNF Furnace 35 |
 |
| Kelty Mistral 40 |
Another note on style.
Check out the zipper. Check what
side it’s on if you have a preference.
Check that the inside of the zipper is covered so that it won’t bother
you when you’re sleeping. And check the
general quality. You don’t want a broken
zipper on the trail.
Suggested Products:
Marmot Trestles 30 - 33 degree lowest rating, synthetic insulation, $99-$119 at REI
TNF Furnace 35 - 35 degree lowest rating, down insulation, $169-$179 at REI
Kelty Mistral 40 - 40 degree lowest rating, synthetic insulation, $65.99-$85.99 at Campmor
Sleeping Pads
Sleeping pads are in some regards just as important as
the sleeping bags. Sleeping without a
pad isn’t just taking a chance at being uncomfortable; if you don’t use a
sleeping pad, you will also lose a lot of crucial body heat to the ground. I made the choice on one trip to not bring a
pad, and in the end I (and my back!) regretted that decision. When it comes to buying a pad, there is
really just one type you should consider: self-inflating packable pads. Foam pads are durable but don’t pack
well. Inflatable pads (that you manually
inflate) tend to be bulky and break easily.
Cots are simply too big and heavy.
This still leaves a few options to choose from, and you
can’t really go wrong with any of them.
Look for pads designed for backpacking.
Look for brands like Therm-a-rest, Big Agnes, and any outdoor store
brands (REI, Gander Mountain, etc.).
Choose a length (full length, ¾ length, etc.) and a shape (rectangular,
mummy, etc.) that meets your needs.
 |
| Therm-a-rest ProLite |
 |
| REI Trekker |
Suggested products:
Rain Gear
When it comes to the rain gear you have on the trail, the
choice you make will directly affect your health and safety. Good, high quality rain gear is
essential. It is your first line of
defense against the elements, and the quality of your gear can make or break
your trip. This includes not only the
coat but the pants as well. You must
have both.
There are literally thousands of different products you
could buy that could be considered ‘rain gear’, so let me start out by telling
you what you don’t want to buy. DON’T
BUY: ponchos, gear made out of PVC, insulated rain gear (winter or cold weather
soft or hard shells), gear labeled ‘water resistant’ (instead of waterproof),
and windbreakers. These will not be
sufficient for the trail, you will get wet, and your health and safety could be
put at risk.
I cannot stress this enough: good, high quality rain gear
is essential. And while nothing beats
the convenience of shopping at home, I recommend you get to an outdoors store
to do your shopping for this. It’s a
good idea to touch and try on the jacket to make sure it fits, and it helps
having a knowledgeable salesperson with you to answer your questions about the
gear (places like REI, Cabela’s, and Gander Mountain have great sales reps that
can answer these questions for you).
When you look for rain gear, start with the materials
it’s made from. It must be a waterproof
material, but it must also be breathable.
Getting wet from sweat is just as bad as getting wet from rain, so
whatever suit you choose must be able to manage both. The first truly waterproof material was
Gore-Tex™, and it continues to be the premier waterproof textile. What sets it apart is that it is made of
extremely thin layers of different materials that each provide a protective layer
against either abrasions, moisture, or heat loss. Several different varieties of Gore-Tex™ now
exist, differentiated mostly by how many layers are used in the fabric. Gore-Tex™ can be expensive, though, so you
may want to consider alternatives like H2NO™ (by Patagonia), NeoShell™ (by
Polartec), and Hyvent (by North Face).
These alternatives have been criticized for not being quite as
breathable as Gore-Tex™, but they have been proven to be just as
waterproof.
Next, look at the construction, including the zippers,
seams, pull cords, hood, and length.
Rain gear needs to be fully waterproof.
Zippers and seams are weak parts of the gear that could allow water
through. Check the zippers not only on
the front but also the pockets and any vents under the arms or on the
sides. Check the seams by looking on the
inside of the jacket. Most manufacturers
use seam sealing tape which should be clearly seen. If it isn’t, ask your salesperson how the
seams are waterproofed. The pull cords
should cinch in tight to keep water out of the bottom, and the sleeves should
have elastic or Velcro to keep to sleeves tight at the wrist. The hood should be convenient to access, fit
not too loose or too snug, and allow for decent range of motion of your
head. Also be sure to check the length
and width. It shouldn’t be too
narrow. You may be wearing layers and
even a PFD underneath the rain coat. At
the same time, don’t choose a jacket that is too bulky or big to move around in
comfortably. Finally, the length of the
jacket and pants should be long enough to cover you in whatever position you
are in. Try on the gear and do the
‘crouch test’. Crouch down low. If the lower back shows, the coat isn’t long
enough. If the ankles are exposed, the
pants aren’t long enough.
Once you determine that the fabric and the construction
are suitable, then it comes down to your personal preferences—color, brand
preference, general look and feel, etc.
Try on many different suits, and find the one that you like. You can mix and match jackets and pants, too,
to find exactly what you’re looking for.
Again, avoid insulation. It can
rain when it’s 80 degrees out, and you don’t want to be stuck wearing an
insulated winter coat. And while we’re
speaking of heat and construction, check for any vents under the arms or on the
back. A coat with these will be better
accustomed to handle rain in warm weather and will keep you from getting too
sweaty.
Again, there are hundreds, maybe thousands of different
products out there, so take these suggestions as just starting points. The price range is very wide, so consider not
only the quality of the product, but how often and what situations you will be
using them in. In general, the higher
the price, the better the gear; the lower the price, not necessarily the better
the bargain.
 |
| Columbia Watertight II |
 |
| Marmot Spectra |
 |
| TNF Dryzzle |
 |
| Mountain Hardware Ampato |
 |
| REI Crestrail |
|
 |
| Marmot Precip |
Suggested products:
Columbia Watertight II -
$50 at Campmor
Marmot Spectra -
$119.93 at REI
Mountain Hardware Ampato -
$174.93 at REI
TNF Dryzzle -
$199 at REI
Marmot Precip Pants -
$100 at REI
REI Crestrail Pants -
$89.50 at REI
Boots
It’s true: over 90% of the mileage we cover on canoe
trips is on the water, and it’s your upper body that does the majority of the
work. However, those times when you are
moving on the ground require excellent footwear. For our trips, that means boots, and for a
few good reasons: (1) boots are structurally stronger than shoes and offer
better ankle support; (2) boots generally have better traction on wet rock,
through mud, and up and down steep inclines; and (3) with the right pair and
when used correctly, boots keep your feet comfortable, dry, and healthy and
keep you moving on the trail.
In many ways, the same rules that apply to rain gear also
apply to boots. When looking at boots,
start by looking for the ones that are waterproof. There will be plenty of times where you may
need to step into the water or walk through mud or marsh. Check that waterproofing by asking questions:
is it just the base, or are the tongue and ankle also waterproofed? What kind of material do they use to
waterproof the boot? Then weed out any
“boots” that aren’t any taller than a normal tennis shoe. A good boot should cover the ankle and offer
support.
 |
| Keen Gypsum Boot |
 |
| Salomon Quest 4D II |
With those criteria in mind, start looking for the right
boot for you.
There are countless brands
that offer a wealth of shapes, sizes, colors, etc.
Find the waterproof, well-constructed pair
that you like and go with it.
 |
| Columbia Peak Freak XCRSN |
Suggested products:
Keen Gypsum -
$150 at REI
Salomon Quest 4D II -
$230 at REI
Columbia Peak Freak XCRSN -
$120 at Columbia
NB: These boots are
what we would call your ‘trail shoes’.
These are what you will put on every day when you pack up the campsite
and hit the water. When you are in a
campsite, you will have another more comfortable pair of shoes, such as Tevas
or Keen sandals, Converse (a favorite of Joe Milligan’s), or any old pair of
tennis shoes you may have. Unless you
are truly adamant about it, there’s no reason to buy anything new to be your
‘campsite shoes’.
Clothing
I’m going to bundle all of the rest of the apparel into
this category. Rather than specific
items I’d recommend, there just are few general principles you should know and
understand when shopping for trail clothes:
1)
Dress in layers.
As the day goes on, the air temperature and how hard you’re working can
change tremendously. Sweat, just like
rain, is moisture, and moisture is the enemy.
Base layers should be little to lightly insulating and should be a
wicking fabric. Mid-layers are for
cooler weather so should offer a bit more insulation.
2)
Choose fabrics well. Cotton is a big no-no for trial clothes. If it gets wet, it provides no protective
layering and takes a long time to dry.
Same with canvas and some polyesters.
Instead, choose synthetics that tout “wicking” or “quick-drying.” You can also go with wool, which still
insulates even when it gets wet. If you
want something even more performance, some companies offer clothing made from
fabric that repel insects or offer additional sun protection.
3)
Pack smart.
The trips that we take are not as demanding space-wise as say a hiking
trip (where every single ounce of weight and each cubic inch matters), but
packing space on our trips aren’t limitless either. Try to find clothing that packs up well. A warm, packable fleece is far better than a
big bulky sweatshirt (and will be warmer).
Every trip is an adventure, and every adventure will be
different. There’s no telling what
you’ll encounter on the trail, and we can only wait to hear the stories you
bring back. So start shopping, start
preparing, and get excited. Your canoe
trip awaits!
Sutton Stewart is a
long-time counselor at Camp Chippewa and has spent 16 summers at camp. Over his time at Chippewa, he has been on a dozen canoe trips through Ontario and Manitoba and has led numerous other
trips throughout northern Minnesota. He
also spent a few years working in outdoor retail and grew up camping in the
Boundary Waters Canoe Area in Minnesota.
You can contact Sutton at this email: sutton@campchippewa.com.
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